Chile - Part 1
My Chile trip with my dad
Every five years my dad and I have celebrated his birthday with an adventure. For example, ten years ago while he was still living in Indonesia, we traveled to Java to do a three day trek to summit Mt Semeru for his 65th.
When the topic came up for his 75th this year we wanted to do something new for both of us. We eventually landed on the idea of Chile, specifically trekking in Patagonia. Given my touring schedule we decided to celebrate early which worked in our favor because it is summer in that region in January when I expected to have the most down time.
In the end between our two schedule we had just under two weeks and ultimately ten days on the ground. It would end up being a jam packed adventure but we made the most of the time.
We split our time between three places: Santiago, Patagonia/Puerto Natales, and the Atacama Desert.
For the sake of simplicity I will break this into three separate posts based on the regions. Starting with…
Santiago
Being the capital, we found ourselves passing through Santiago three times. It probably could have been done in a more simple way, but it ended up being a nice way to have multiple unique experiences there.
Santiago description
Santiago is situated smack in the middle of the country making for a good hub. It is a vast city with over seven million people flanked by the striking Andes mountain range. For a busy city it never felt overwhelming.
We were repeatedly warned by people about crime and safety but never once felt unsafe. Only at Plaza de Armas did we feel the need to be alert about pick pockets. I will note that we were out much late at night or going out to bars.
Sleeping
Each time we passed through Santiago we stayed somewhere different. All three were Marriott properties (thanks points!) and nothing particularly noteworthy. Instead I will highlight the areas.
Our first night we stayed at the Sheraton Four Points in Providencia. Location wise this was probably our favorite. It is a short walk to the metro, close to a mall easy to get to from the airport. Lots to eat and drink within a short walk.
We stayed at a City Express by Marriott at the airport. On our way from the south to the north we had to stop overnight in Santiago due to the timing of the flights and decided to stay near the airport. There really is nothing out there. Also the hotel shuttle was next to useless since it was at odd times so we ended up Ubering both ways. Oh well.
The last time through we stayed at the Santiago Marriott in Las Condes. Las Condes felt very westernized and very safe, but we found ourselves leaving the area for most food and activities. The metro was a good 20–30-minute walk. Not the most accessible but still a nice place to stay.
Santiago Coffee
Outdoor seating in a quiet neighborhood at Cafe Black Mamba
Cafe Black Mamba – This spot was fantastic. First, it is OPEN on Sunday! Second, it is tucked away on a quiet street offering a mellow vibe. There is a small amount of seating both inside and out. They offer a beautiful coffee from a super talented barista. There are several delicious pastries available. I had some sort of Nutella croissant type thing in a round shape? Fantastic. We also had a very tasty avocado toast as well as a ham and cheese toastie. And the staff was very friendly.
This spot was so good that we went back a second time (and probably would again if we were still there)
Coffee - 4.5/5 * Food - 4/5 * Staff - 4.5/5 * Vibe - 4.5/5
Overall - 4.5/5
https://www.instagram.com/cafeblackmamba/ * Huelén 71, 7500617 Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile *
This Nutella pastry was AMAZING.
Staff at Felix
Felix – Felix is very much a straight-ahead hipster coffee shop. They aren’t trying to be anything but that. They make a tasty cup of coffee with some low stools and tables outside to drink the delicious coffee and watch life go by.
Fun anecdote. While sitting there I looked down to take a sip of my coffee, then when I looked up I saw my 74 year old dad helping push start a truck across the street. That is the way I want to be.
Coffee - 4/5 * Food - N/A * Staff 4/5 * Vibe - 4.25/5
Overall - 4/5
http://felixcafe.cl/ * Coyancura 2223, Local 8, 7510151 Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile * +56975484482
3841 Coffee Roasters – I had seen this place from an acquaintance who went and it looked good. Either it was an off day, or relative to Black Mamba it was very underwhelming. The staff was nice, but the space felt a bit run down and the coffee was weak.
Coffee - 3.5/5 * Food - N/A * Staff - 3/5 * Vibe - 3/5
Overall - 3/5
José Victorino Lastarria 288, Local 11, 8320126 Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile * +56226385379
Santiago Food
Dad excited for our first batch of oysters - these from Baco
A caution – If you are visiting as I suspect you would be if you are reading this – many restaurants are closed on Sunday or close early (before 6p) so be sure to plan.
Steak at Baco
Baco – We ate here on our first night. It was the only restaurant within a reasonable distance that seemed open for dinner on a Sunday. We had a delicious meal that was very French influenced. Some oysters, some steaks, and a nice glass of Carmenere wine. I would do it all over again if I had to, but other days of the week there are certainly other restaurants that I preferred.
Food - 3.5/5 * Staff - 3/5 * Vibe - 3/5
Overall - 3.5/5
https://www.baco.cl/ * Nueva de Lyon 113, 7510054 Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile * +56222314444
Metissage – Metissage was a bakery a nice walk from Providendcia. We went there for breakfast and had avocado toast. Everything was delicious but I wish they had used a different style of bread for the toast. The coffee was mediocre but wasn’t the reason we were there. We bought a loaf of levain which served as our breakfast at our airBnb’s later in the trip. The levain was delicious!
Food - 3.5/5 * Staff - 3/5 * Vibe - 3/5
Overall - 3.5/5
https://tienda.metissage.cl/ * Av Vitacura 3187, Vitacura, Región Metropolitana, Chile * +56954007845
Avo toast at Message. The toast was ok, but the avocado was amazing. Chile consistently had some of the best avocados I’ve ever had.
Crab pasta at Bocanariz
Bocanáriz – Bocanariz is wine bar. Their selection of wines is remarkable. They had tastings available as well. Their food menu is delicious elevated tapas style dishes with a couple of larger entrees. We decided to share a bunch of dishes and were not disappointed.
The crab pasta was delightful and delicate. Their take on patatas bravas was awesome! The wine flight was good but did not blow us away, maybe next time I will go with a bottle off their extensive list.
Food - 4.5/5 * Staff - 4/5 * Vibe - 4.5/5
Overall - 4.25/5
http://www.bocanariz.cl/ * José Victorino Lastarria 276, 8320126 Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile * +56939110332
Carmenere flight at Bocanariz
More oysters! This time at Chile Libre
Chipe Libre – Chipe Libre is a fun restaurant next door to Bocanariz with their specialty being Pisco drinks. Naturally I had a pisco sour, dad had a calafete drink that was exceptional. We indulged in oysters, ceviche with sea urchin, and empanadas. The empanadas were fine, everything else was delicious.
Food -4.5/5 * Staff - 4.25/5 * Vibe - 4/5
Overall - 4.25/5
http://www.chipe-libre.cl/ * José Victorino Lastarria 282, 8320165 Santiago, Región Metropolitana, Chile * +56226640584
A calafete cocktail
Definitely not the most glamorous photos, but this sandwich was delicious. Also very messy.
Fuente Alemana – Fuente Alemana has been an institution in Santiago for years. It is a fancy sandwich shop. The specialty is Lomito which is similar to a pulled pork sandwich. I got it with (a very generous helping of) avocado, tomato, and mayo. They certainly like the mayo. The whole thing was an experience and delicious. I bet in restaurant with a cold beer it would be lovely.
Food - 4/5 * Staff - 4/5 * Vibe - 4/5
Overall - 4/5
Note - If you want take out, there is a take out only location around the corner from the entrance to the main restaurant.
https://fuentealemana.cl/ * Av. Pedro de Valdivia 210, 7510248 Providencia, Región Metropolitana, Chile * +56228196825
Staff in the take out side of Fuente Alemana ready with to go boxes
Santiago Sights
Fish market in downtown Santiago
Blessings in Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago
Plaza de Armas – Plaza de Armas felt like a must do and the central square of the city. It was lively with lots going on. The church is quite a site. There are lots of vendors and activity going on, but ultimately we were a bit underwhelmed by it.
Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago de Chile - In Plaza de Armas is this massive church worth a look inside.
Castillo Hidalgo – Located in the Bella Artes district this castle where the Governor once lived and protected himself tours over the neighborhood. It is a free attraction with a maze of paths circling the property culminating at the top turret with a 360 degree view of the city and nearby Andes mountains.
Bella Artes – We ended up in this area a few times for meals and walking around. It feels like a very vibrant neighborhood with lots of food and drink options. Street vendors set up on the sidewalks selling all sorts of goods. I found many great souvenirs and gifts in this area.
Santiago getting around
A vendor selling various treats on the metro
Metro – The metro is surprisingly easy and clean. It felt like it got us places in a timely manner at a reasonable price. All the stations were clearly marked. Paired with google maps to know which line to take and which station to get off at, it was the way to go. It did get crowded at rush hour so be prepared to squeeze.
Waiting for the metro
Cab – The only taxi we took was from the airport. Before going out into the arrivals there are counters that arrange the flat rate cab fare. It is super easy and civilized but a bit more expensive than the alternative.
Uber – According to some articles I read Uber is not officially sanctioned but seems to be pretty prevalent. Fares were often much cheaper than cabs, relatively quick, and friendly. It became our go to means of transport outside of the metro. We never felt unsafe taking them.
Summary
I had no idea what to expect but those expectations were exceeded. The city felt clean and safe. It was easy to navigate and was full of delicious food and coffee. Really I wish we had another week there to take it slow and explore some of the other neighborhoods.
If you are headed to Patagonia and passing through, don’t forget to stop in Santiago and enjoy all it has to offer. There is so much more I wanted to see and I hope to do that next visit. If you have any activities, neighborhoods, food or coffee recommendations please comment below or shoot me an email.
The ivy covered Intercontinental in Santiago